INDEX
History of Perfume
Fragrant water, we call it “perfume”. The history of perfume is definitely not recent. The origin of perfume is commonly attributed to the ancient era, goes back to the time when human beings started using fire. They utilized scents to celebrate prayers and religious ceremonies by burning resin, essential oils, perfumed unguents and medical herbs. Fragrances, in fact, accompanied us in everyday life all over the world.
We would like to introduce “the art of fragrance”of the world’s oldest pharmacy, Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy, which continues to fascinate people all over the world. Especially you will find the origin of their fragrance with their long history
Ancient Ages
The word Perfume derives from the Latin word Per Fumum, which means “to smoke through.” The origin of the perfume is commonly attributed to the gods , when ancient people burned fragrant trees and grass.
In ancient Egypt, when a king or queen died, the corpse was covered with fragrances and preservatives, mummified and finally buried. Since the scent was thought to lead to “revival = regeneration”, the fragrance was treated as an indispensable valuable item for the ancient Egyptians.
In Greece, the production of perfume became popular, and the custom of applying perfume oil to the body after bathing became widespread among the citizens. When this fragrance was introduced from Greece to Rome, new rose water was created and became a pandemic among ancient Roman aristocrats. It is said that the aristocrats enjoyed filling their homes with scents from the bathroom to the bedroom by applying perfume oils and fragrances to their bodies and clothes after bathing several times a day.
Middle Ages
In the Middle Ages, fragrances were considered a luxury item and restricted to use by Christian. At the same time, in the Islamic region, a method of making a perfume was invented to distill the flowers, stems, roots, leaves, seeds, bark, etc. of plants and extract the essential oil, which is an aromatic oil contained in plants. It is said that the prototype of the current perfume was made by dissolving the essential oil in alcohol. Afterwards, essential oil fragrances were introduced to Europe with the development of East-West trade in the 15th century.
Fragrances were also produced in Italy and France. Fragrances were used all the rage to prevent body odor among aristocrats at the time who did not have a bathing habit. In the meantime, in Grasse, which was a famous place in the leather industry, fragrances were used to deodorize leather. The fragrance industry developed through the cultivation of plants. In this era, a new smell is born, and It’s more delicate and natural.
Perfumes like eau de toilette were created at the end of the 16th century. When, young Catherine de Medici left Florence to marry Henry II of France, brought her own perfume from her hometown. This perfume became very popular in Paris, finally the noble art of perfume spread throughout the world.
Modern Ages
At the beginning of the 19th century, in the modern era, research on various chemical structures progressed mainly in Europe. As the chemical structure of the aroma components contained in essential oils is elucidated, it will be possible to synthesize a variety of aroma components.
In the 20th century, analytical technology has been further improved so that the types, amounts, detailed molecular structures, etc. of each aromatic component can be elucidated, and complex scents that combine multiple aromatic components can be synthesized. Today, fragrances synthesized from petroleum and alcohol are used in various applications such as perfumes, cosmetics, and fragrances.
History of Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy
Florence is famous as the city of flowers. This world heritage site, which still has a strong medieval atmosphere, is known all over the world as the birthplace of Renaissance culture and the glory of the Medici family.
When you get off the Santa Maria Novella train station, which is the gateway to the city, you will see the majestic church of Santa Maria Novella in front of you. The history of Santa Maria Novella Pharmacy began with this church founded by the Domenico Monastery.
Monastery Pharmacy and Medical Herbs
The origin of the Italian monastery dates back to the 6th century, when St. Benedict founded a monastery in the mountains of Monte Cassino, between Rome and Naples, where he practiced as a group under the precepts. They accepted pilgrims and sick people from outside of their area and lived a communal life together as a form of prayer and labor.
There was always a large garden in the monastery where monks cultivated medicinal herbs and vegetables. These herbs are used for patients to treat their sickness, also to make medications, balms and scented water for the monks’ infirmary.
Since the monastery had played a role as a hospital, these monks had studied and dedicated themselves to research on the cultivation and prescription of these herbs.
Finally those researches had been actively promoted, and became the origin of today’s medical herbs.
In 1216, 12 Dominican monks from Bologna arrived in Florence. Although Florence was surrounded by old walls, those monks founded the church “Santa Maria Vigne” in a new area outside of the old walls. The name “novella” comes from the Italian word “nuova” which means “new”. The monks settled in a new world in this new area.
In 1221, medicinal herbs were cultivated in the courtyard of the monastery attached to this church and the monks started to make medication by using those herbs. The news of the quality of the products produced by them reached the outside world, there were many people visited the pharmacy to get those medications.
In 1381, They started to sell their first production of scented water, “rose water”, made from essential oils extracted from roses. It is reported that the monks used to distill the petals of roses, which have a high bactericidal effect as well as the scent. The decades of the Black Death were particularly hard for the afflicted populations, so that the monks distilled the rose water. At that time, this was used both to sanitize patients and their rooms.
In 1612, when news of the pharmacy reached the outside world, it was decided to open to the public; in 1659, they were approved as “royal warrants” by Ferdinand II, the head of the Medici family at the time.
Since 1700, Santa Maria Novella’s fame spread across national borders to reach such distant lands as the Indies and even China. and today there are many stores in the United States, South Africa, Taiwan, China, and Japan.
Santa Maria Novella Herb Garden
Santa Maria Novella’s products are made by their own monks’ recipes which have been protected for over 800 years, at a factory in the suburbs about 3 km away from the main store in the historic district of Florence.
There is also a beautiful garden on the hill of Castello where the Medici Petria House is located. They have cultivated many kinds of herbs which were traditionally produced since the 13th century. Those Herbs that are also used in Santa Maria Novella’s products. Such as follows.
・Balsamite: Known as a bitter-tasting balsam-scented herb, this herb is a volatile essential oil that contains ingredients that activate nerves and eliminate menstrual irregularities. The essential oil and distilled water of this plant are used in Acqua della Regina as well as old-fashioned staples such as plastique. It has been cultivated for a long time so that it is called Santa Maria grass.
・ Ginestra: Ginestra / Genisteae, which is characterized by bright yellow flowers, smell strongly in fragrance. The essential oil is refined by extracting the fragrance from the flowers by using a solvent. this flowers is also used in Santa Maria Novella perfumes, Ginestra and Iris
-Iris: Iris of the Iridaceae genus Iris extracts its fragrance from the rhizome, not the flowers. The strong scent drifting from this rhizome is extracted, the essential oil is refined and blended with perfume iris, etc., or the essential oil is dried and powdered and used for talcum powder and potpourri.
・ Jasmine: Jasmine, a charming flower that was cultivated in Egypt and India in the olden days. Its strong fragrance has been deeply loved by Cleopatra and the Medici family for many years. Many women loved the scent as a perfume. Jasmin is used in perfumes such as Capriforio and Fieno.
・Lavender: Lavender grows naturally throughout Italy and is widely cultivated to extract essential oils due to its excellent active ingredients. Lavender essential oil is an indispensable plant for herbal cultivation because it contains ingredients that improve respiratory problems, insomnia, nervousness, anxiety, dementia disorders, and indigestion. these plants are used in perfume Fieno.
・ Caprifoglio: Caprifolio has pink flowers belonging to the genus Honeysuckle. In Italy, there was a tradition of decorating this flower in a young daughter’s bedroom because they had the power of love. these herbs are used in perfume Caprifoglio.
The story behind the birth of “Queen’s Water”
In 1533, Catherine de Medici left Florence to marry the future king of France. She was born in a nobile family of Medici whose ancestors were all medical doctors or pharmacists. As a daughter of the Medici family, she loved arts, food and beauty.
When she arrived in France, among the cooks, dishes, sweets and cosmetics, she also asked for a perfumer to make her own perfume, this noble art of perfume spread throughout the world.
Acqua di Santa Maria Novella, or they called Acqua della Regina (the “Queen’s Water”), the oldest fragrance of the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella became an homage to the gift of love that Caterina brought to France.
Santa Maria Novella’s Special Selections
The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella continues to create the European scent by following their own historical recipes. We would like to introduce their special selections.
Santa Maria Novella Ginestra
Top note: Ginestra
Middle note: Orchid
Last note: Oakmoss
Genisteae / Genisteae can be found around Tuscan hills, and have many bright yellow butterfly-shaped flowers on their elongated branches. A scent that perfectly harmonizes a slightly sweet floral with a fresh and cheerful green. Unisex fragranse.
Santa Maria Novella Alba di Soul
Top notes: bergamot, fresh spices
Middle note: Korean pine
Last Note: Patchouli, Oriental Wood
Released in 2012, Its bouquet of fresh green and crisp top notes introduces an intense heart characterized by Korean pine, and leads to woody oriental base notes. You can enjoy it in unisex, it’s perfect as a gift. The oriental scent reminiscent of the deep forests of Korean pine has a calming and soothing effect, so you can enjoy a relaxing time.
Santa Maria Novella Iris
Top note: Iris
Middle note: Sweet floral note
Last note: Oakmoss
The iris, which grows naturally on the Tuscan hills, is a flower that is also a symbol of the city of Florence. Its strong aroma is extracted from the rhizome over a long period of time. It has long been worshiped by people as a majestic flower that often appears in mythology. It has an elegant and elegant scent.
Santa Maria Novella Capriforio
Top notes: bergamot, lemon, orange, jasmine,
Middle note: Honeysuckle, Ylang Ylang, Magnolia
Last note: Oakmoss
Caprifoglio has a single floral note that is both sweet and fresh. Honeysuckle symbolizes a “sweet disposition”, and also bonds of love, since honeysuckle entwines itself around anything it encounters. Flower language is a gentle temperament. A passionate and elegant scent of Italy, which is the country of Amore.
Santa Maria Novella Eva
Top notes: Calabria bergamot, Sicilian lemon
Middle note: Black pepper, nutmeg
Last note: Oakwood, tobacco
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella’s Eva fragrance was presented at Pitti Uomo in 2002. It is a bouquet of citrus dry woods with spiky fresh notes. Spicy middle notes are followed by woody base notes. A unisex scent that can be used anywhere, regardless of age or gender.
Santa Maria Novella Fieno
Top notes: Bergamot, Mandarin
Middle note: jasmine, lavender, wild rose, coumarin,
Last note: pine nuts, vechipa, vanilla
“Fieno” is also known to have been used by that emperor Napoleon. A woody floral bouquet reminiscent of the Tuscan countryside is a fresh hay scent that makes you feel refreshed. You can use it in unisex.
Summary
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella sets its roots back to 1221. Its apothecary art legacy crosses eight centuries and is deeply intertwined with Florence history, in a continuously-renewed alchemy of tales and wonders. Hopefully you will enjoy your life with the noble art of perfume.